![]() ![]() Strip the insulation back using the strippers/cutters. Quick mark using sharpie marker to ID how much of the insulation I want to move. ![]() Any further than this in any terminal is too far, and may cause continuity issues when in use. They are included in our CDI and PMA systems. I strongly prefer these types of terminals. The above terminal is the type that has a mechanical crimp on both the insulation and the copper strand wire. If needed, mock up the terminal you plan to use, and mark it with a sharpie, as you’ll see I have done below: One thing lots of folks get wrong, is stripping too much insulation from the wire. Makes things simple to remember, as the other side is for the terminals *You’ll note that I wrote which side is the “Wire” side in paint pen on my pliers. Practice makes perfect, and you can probably get this dialed in within just a few tries. They aren’t complex, but you don’t want the first crimp you mess up to be on your hard to find terminals supplied in our CDI or PMA systems. I would strongly suggest using some scrap wire and terminals from around the garage, shop, etc… and getting used to these. These have upped my crimp game from “Meh, it should hold, maybe I’ll add some solder” to “Whoa, that looks like factory!” – they are THAT good… They’ve been used by Pandemonium Customs as well, and should have a write-up in Cycle Source Magazine soon as well. I discovered these pliers a while back, RMStator actually sent us a set to test and use in our shop. All I know, it’s dang near to get a proper solder job done on a crummy crimp… ![]() We aren’t going into all the pro’s and con’s of Solder Vs Crimp – you can research and get 200 opinions on that online. Wiring is the biggest problem we see on these bikes, you’ve probably noticed it on your own machine, either from a Previous Owner, your own work, and sometimes (sadly) even professional shops. *NOW Available in our Store! Clicky Clickity Click Right Here: This one is going to be so simple, you’ll wonder why you had done it sooner. I mean, just look at it… Makes ya kinda wonder why it didn’t work eh? Solder all over the terminals, crimped using a cinder block and an old piece of wood, just awful… Dude ruined his $600 Ignition System – don’t let that happen to you! Also available Multiple Sizes Heat Shrink Tubing Kit in our Amazon store.I posted the below pic to our Instagram and Facebook page earlier today…Ĭan we really beat a dead horse? I mean, it’s just basic wiring right? Apparently that bad wiring horse still has some life left in him… Finish him off!ĭo your wiring connections look like this? If so, keep on reading, we’ll fix ya right up! ★【What You Get】- MILAPEAK 430 pcs Non Insulated Wire Terminals (15 types, 225pcs Forks and 205pcs Rings), and our 1 Year Free Warranty and Full Refund within 30 Days ensure pleasant shopping experience.★【Easy Use】- With these crimp terminals, a drop or two of flux and apply the heat, then a touch of tin and your done, beautiful solder joints you get! Come along with the plastic box enable the user easy to store and carry these terminals.★【Multiple Sizes】- Great uninsulated terminals with a large variety of sizes for any small sized job! They're not to large so they're easy to use with basic primary wire, suits cable/ wire sizes : 22-16AWG 0.5-1.5 sq.mm 16-14AWG 1.5-2.5 sq.mm 12-10AWG 4.0-6.0 sq.mm.★【Crimp Securely】- If you solder all crimps, our crimp terminals crimp securely, take soldering iron heat very quickly, and 60/40 solder will suck into the crimp instantly and quite nicely a nice concave taper to the fork or ring.★【High Quality】- Made of T2(99.9% Purity) Red Copper and the thickness complies with international standard, so our crimp terminals has good electrical conductivity and also has a better anti-oxidation performance which make it more durable.
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